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10 March 2014

Baja Bound, Part 21. Totos Santos and the West Cape, Baja Sur


Visiting Totos Santos November 5th and 6th


It took us about 2 hours to drive passed Cabo San Lucas and then north along Highway # 19 to Totos Santos on the West Cape. A beautiful drive through cacti fields and views to the Pacific Ocean.


Drive toward Totos Santos

Totos Santos recently received the designation of " Pueblo Magico" - one of 23 small towns in Mexico with Government funding to make their culture and history more accessible. Hopefully this beautiful town can retain its local charm.


Mision de Nuestra Senora del Pilar de Totos Santos

We parked, visited the the Mision de Nuestra Senora del Pilar de Totos Santos, and then found a local coffee shop to have our morning coffee.

Totos Santos is ideal to explore by foot. Except the main roads, the alleys are all sandy, but the homes are well kept and are decorated with beautiful flowers.


Walking Around Totos Santos

In the local cultural centre on Calle Juarez we found out that this town had a sugar cane boom in the late 1900. But when the underground aquifer, the reason for the green oasis, was depleted, that was the end of the business fame. The wealthy people moved to La Paz and never came back.


Sugar Cane Mill

Cultural Centre


In the entrance of this cultural centre they exhibited offerings for the Day of the Deaths ( Dia de los Muertos). During the beginning of November Mexicans celebrate the death. It is not a sad event. They visit the graves with food and musical instruments and remember and celebrate the departed with a party.

Many artists live here in Totos Santos and work right out of their homes.


Sculptor Benito Ortega Vargas

We met Benito Ortega Vargas a very gifted sculptor, On the same street the fine art family jeweler José Brilanti  ( founded by grandma Ana Brilanti ) had exquisite silver jewelry we could not resist. In the boutique Manos Mexicanas we admired El Barro de Ruben's clay work.
This small town has wonderful art and handicrafts, be forewarned!

We had lunch at Fonda El Zaguan on Calle Juarez. The fish tacos were excellent and so was the Mexican white wine.


Fish Tacos at El Zaguan

We stayed over night at the Guaycura Boutique  Hotel ( the Guaycura natives lived in this area until they were extinct in the 1800 ). This hotel was expensive, even after negotiating with the receptionist, but it was great. 


Guaycura Boutique Hotel

At the roof top bar one can see over the whole town. They served amazing Tapas. 


Tapas


We ate supper in the courtyard here at the hotel as well. The food and service was excellent. For dessert we had Guanabana fruit ( Soursop ) and ice cream. It was delicious. We did not know what it was, so the waiter gave us a picture he searched for us on line.

For breakfast next morning Anders had Eggs Benny with avocado instead of bacon, and I had an omelet with tomatoes, Mexican string cheese, fried fresh pineapple, and parsley. Wow




Totos Santos Home

We were ready for more of Totos Santos. 
The painter  Victor Vega Rosa at his Galleria La Coronela surprised us with a totally different style and design in his work. Have a look.

Somewhere on Calle Juarez close to Hotel California we bought a handwoven small wool rug. Mario, the vendor also demonstrated "Grande Sorpresa" , a hillarious demonstration of Mexican virility under a BBQ apron. 


La Cachora Beach

In the afternoon we drove out of town through the oasis to Playa La Cachora. Amazing miles of white sandy beaches, and we were the only people there.


El Pescadero

On the way back home we drove through the fishing village El Pescadero where the locals live. 

Then across the highway to Rancho Pescadero and later to Playa Los Cerritos. Both of these places are tourist beaches where the locals offer all kind of beach activities.


At the Tourist Beaches


Tired, but full of new impressions we came back to our home, the condo on Costa Azul.


If you would like to see more pictures of the Western Cape and Totos Santos please click here for our  Web Album

Click on any of the links below to go to other parts of this wonderful trip.

1.       2.      3.      4.      5.      6.     7.      8.      9.      10.

11.    12.    13.    14.    15.    16.    17.    18.    19.    20.

21.    22.    23.    24.    25.    26.    27.    28.    29.    30.

31.    32.    33.

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