Baja Bound, Part 20. Los Cabos, Baja Sur

San José del Cabo, the Corridor in between, and Cabo San Lucas = Los Cabos

The southern tip of the Baja Peninsula ( Los Cabos ) consists of two towns: Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo connected by a 29 km strip in between called the Corridor.

Waterfront Walk Cabo San Lucas

We stayed at the western end of San José del Cabo, about a ten minute drive into the old town of San José. 

Cabo San Lucas Marina

All the way along the Corridor there are fancy hotels, golf courses, surf beaches, swimming beaches, and all inclusive resorts. According to friends here on Cortes Island, who sailed and visited 30-40 years ago down there, Cabo San Lucas was a farm and some fishing huts. 

Today it is a huge tourist destination for the cruise ships, the luxury yachts, the all inclusive tourist resorts, Costco, pushy souvenir sellers, wonderful shops, and on the outskirts gated communities, some finished, but some remaining just dreams. Just like in Loreto, the Mexican Government in the 1970s decided that this area would be a tourist zone.

Chileno Beach, our Swimming Beach along the Corridor

San José on the other hand has a long history. Before the Jesuits arrived, the indigenous Pericu called this area Anuiti. They lived not at the coast because there was no water there ( still a problem today, Los Cabos uses mostly desalinated water ), but in the foothills of the Sierra Laguna. 

The missionaries tried so hard to convert the Pericu and prohibiting their custom of polygamy that it sparked a revolt. After that San José was mostly abandoned. Unfortunately European diseases eventually killed off the Pericu. San José remained for the most part a frontier town until in the 1960s when tourism started along the cape.

Downtown San José del Cabo

It is here in the old town of San José where Anders and I spend many wonderful days. Visiting the wonderful galleries, coffee shops, souvenir shops and many back alleys.

Belem, the Owner of Calafia makes great Coffee and she serves Goodies and Lunches

The shop owners were very hungry, but always very polite with a good sense of humour. We loved this city. In the back alleys it is a true Mexican town and along the tourist roads  Mijares, Zaragoza, and Hidalgo - English is the language of the visitors.

At the Taqueria Rossy the Locals ate, so did we

For additional pictures from Los Cabos go to our Web Album

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Baja Bound, Part 19. San José del Cabo, Baja California Sur

Life is a beach in San Jose del Cabo

November 2nd 2013

Our condo faced straight East, so we were up early, had breakfast and headed for the beach below us. Since the highway was between us and the beach we walked a little along the road, then under the highway bridge through the dried out arroyo and to the amazing beach.

Playa Costa Azul

From the Playa Costa Azul one could walk all the way into San Jose on the beautiful sandy beach. Besides a Gringo fisherman  and a native cowboy with his horses, we were for a long time the only people walking along. We enjoyed the walk for a few kilometers, then we turned around , it got too hot. By the time we were back home it was over 30 degrees and humid.

Horses and Cowboy looking for Customers

In the afternoon it was time for us to go food shopping. We parked at the underground parkade at the Mega Store ( like a Save-On-Foods here in Canada). Right away someone approached us, asking if we would like the truck washed. How much? 60 Pesos about 5 dollars. We were not sure. The only equipment they had was a bucket of water and some rags, but we said yes to go ahead. After about an hour, when we were finished shopping, our truck was sparkling, even the tire rims were shiny. What a deal. That is a supper service.

Playa Costa Azul is not a Swimming Beach

At the Mega store we found most of the things we could buy here in Canada. It just had different labels, sizes and looks. The vegetables looked good, and I bought Micribicida, a disinfectant to wash fruits and vegetables in. The meat was way more expensive that in Canada and did not look that good. But we wanted a steak for supper, our first since a few weeks. 

Washing Fruits and Vegetables carefully

I refused to buy any chicken. It all looked so yellow/orange. We found out later that it is very good chicken, and that its special colour comes from the chicken's feed of Marigold to make it that colour.

Yes, we met the time-share realtors in the Mega store. They could see from far that we were new in town. So these well dressed men and women hang around the yogurt counters and offer to help you find what you can't see. Their English is very good, their spiel is to be very friendly and offering you to buy the groceries you have in the cart, and or a free cruise to go fishing. Naturally you will have to come and see their  fantastic investment you cannot refuse. Well, they asked the wrong people, we said no.

Back at the condo, I washed the fruits and vegetables carefully. Anders cooked the steak in a very old and bent frying pan, there was no BBQ. We had a great "Canadian Supper".

Playa Costa Azul is a Surfers' Paradise

For more photos of San José del Cabo, please see our Web Album

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Baja Bound, Part 18. Our First Day in San José del Cabo, Baja Sur

From November 1st to the 21st we are staying in a Condo in San José del Cabo

We left La Paz early on the first of November to drive to San José del Cabo. On the way out of La Paz we took Diesel. Again the attendant was very friendly, making sure the gauge was on zero before starting the pump, they even washed our windows. Morning traffic was heavy out of town. Along the road many small Cantinas ( road-side stands ) were serving coffees and breakfast.

Views from our Condo to Playa Costa Azul

In sunshine we drove into San José del Cabo. We found our condo at Costa Azul # 6 without any problems. This was our most southerly destination and goal of our Baja California Trip.

Lunch at the Condo

It was 30 degrees Celsius in the shade.  A friendly neighbour let us into the condo , and the rental agent eventually arrived and showed us around. Our condo has a fantastic views over the Playa Costa Azul and the ocean. 

The inside of the condo looks good. A few things will need attention, like the air conditioner was so noisy we could not have it on when we were there. A tea kettle would also have been convenient. But we settled in and enjoyed every minute of it. Our philosophy is, if you want it like at home, you have to stay at home.

Settling into our new place

We had a nice dip into our swimming pool to cool off after unpacking all our suitcases and all the odds and ends. One of the gardeners had helped us carrying all the stuff up the stairs in the heat. 

We had arrived, and it was nice to have a perma-base for a while. We set up the lab-tops and logged on to Shaw (!), and checked the TV programs. The Calgary sports Channels came through loud and clear. Yes strange, but we rented the condo from a Calgary, Alberta person.

Views over our Parking to the Ocean

Sunrise over the Ocean

For more pictures from San José del Cabo please go to our Web album



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Baja Bound, Part 17. Enjoying a Day in La Paz, Baja California Sur

La Paz, Baja California Sur

October 31st 2013 we reserved all day to explore La Paz. Early, we went for a long walk along the 5km long waterfront promenade, the Malecon. The sun was shining, and the city looked freshly washed after the rain yesterday.

Morning Walk along the Malecon in La Paz

La Paz is the largest city on the southern Baja Peninsula and its Capital. About 200,000 people live here. Already at breakfast at a little restaurant along the Malecon, we could feel a different atmosphere in this city. Locals and tourists ate in the same places.

Coffee in the Sun

The locals do not seam to care if we are there or not. The people from La Paz go about their daily life without just serving the tourists. There seams to be a balance. At our hotel in the evening, male and even a female had business meetings. Native and Spanish looking waiters served us. It felt like we were back in the 21st Century.

Shopping at the Municipal Market

On our long walk today we visited the "Teatro Juarez Exposiciones" In this old building the native history of the Guaicura and Pericu people was exhibited. Eventhough it was only in Spanish, we did understand the hardship these people had gone through. How the missionaries came and  forced them to build missions and churches, and the Spanish conquerors forced them to change their life styles and age old cultures.

Walking the local Neighbourhoods

The history of La Paz is similar and even more varied than the smaller Baja towns we visited so far. In 1533 Hernan Cortes landed here in search of water.

The indigenous people fought them off. It took the Spanish until 1683 to establish a stronghold here. They came not only for the water and the  religious conversions, but especially for the pearls. The saltwater pearls from oyster beds close to Isla Cerralvo just offshore from La Paz was the big attraction. But by the 1930's the oysters beds were depleted.

Back at the SevenCrown Hotel Balcony

We visited some art galleries. We found many of the art works in flamboyant colours, but in dark and macabre expressions. Often not very comfortable. I assume the artists' long histories of suffering under the religious and Spanish rulers comes to the surface.

We eventually found the "Ibarra's Pottery" shop in the inner city. Local artisans and artists were demonstrating their work. Very interesting. We bought a nice pottery dish.

Tired, but happy we walked back to our hotel and had a long siesta. Toward the evening we drove out to the Peninsula and toward  Pichilinnque where the ferry terminal to the mainland is. It is very commercial around there. But passed that and further out, are some beautiful beaches.

Playa Balandra

We stopped at Playa Balandra and Playa El Tecolote. Here we watched the ferry make their choppy ride toward the mainland. Families were swimming in the surf, and Anders and I had a drink and watched the dramatic sunset.

Playa El Tecolote

That evening, back in La Paz we enjoyed watching the children, accompanied by an adult or the whole family, visiting all the businesses asking for candy - it was Halloween.

Beautiful Evening on El Tecolote Beach

If you like to see more pictures from La Paz, please click on our Web album


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Baja Bound, Part 16. Loreto to La Paz in the Rain, Baja California Sur

Drive from Loreto to La Paz

The morning of October 30th we ate a good "Gringo" breakfast ( bacon and eggs) at our hotel. After that  we walked along the Malecon and the  beach here in Loreto. The fishermen, tourists, and locals were all enjoying the fresh morning air.

Driving along the Sea of Cortez

Then it was time to pack all our bags into the truck. Today our destination was La Paz about 350 km to the south. 

Sierra de la Giganta

Starting along the Sea of Cortez and then through the Sierra da la Gigate again. Slowly the weather became cloudy and it started to rain.

By the time we came closer to Ciudad Insurgentes it was pouring cats and dogs.

Ciudad Insurgentes in the Rain

Driving through this city, the main roads were under water. We assume that there are no storm drains, because it usually does not rain a lot around here. Right outside the city, it got worse. The main road was under construction; hence, we had to drive for about 10km in the ditch. Not only through a foot of water, but slippery with mud and slow and fast vehicles jockeying through this mess with us .Anders drove in 4 wheel drive all the way not to get stuck.

12 km Dive in the Mud

Coming closer to La Paz

What a relieve when we finally were on pavement again. Still, through the flat agriculture plateau, the narrow roads were full of water. Anders tried to avoid hydroplaning. Finally we came to better pavement around Santa Rita and Las Pocitas. Closer to La Paz the rain let off. 

We found our hotel: The 7 Crown Hotel on the Malecon and we checked in. Happy to be dry and save after a very scary and challenging drive.

Seven Crown Hotel in La Paz

For more pictures of this part of our trip , please click on our Web album

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Baja Bound, Part 15. Trip to San Javier and La Mision San Francisco Javier de Vigge-Biaundo, Baja Sur, Mexico

Our day Trip from Loreto to San Javier

From Loreto we decided to drive up to San Javier in the La Giganta mountains. According to tourist information the road was suppose to be partially paved, good,  but narrow. So off we went. About 2 km south of Loreto we turned right onto the mountain road to San Javier. 

On the Way up to San Javier

Fast we realized that  "paved and good" was a misconception. As we found out, this road was washed out about 2 years ago by heavy rain, and very little has been repaired since. I was very happy to be in our truck. The grade was steep in places, the road very narrow, some places with half of the road missing, some riverbeds ( Arroyos ) flooded we had to drive through, and all along, the road was very bumpy and rough. Anders just loved it. One curve was so tight and narrow, we hardly made it through.

The Road to San Javier

All of a sudden around a sharp curve, a over-loaded construction truck was stuck with a flat tire. We gave one of the men a drive up to the mission. In very broken Spanish we learnt that he would contact someone in Loreto from up there to come and help fix the tire. But he was actually the person giving guided tours in the mission. 

So once we dropped him off in the village, it took him about 10 minutes, and he reappeared in a blue T-shirt and  greeted us as the guide of the church of the Mision San Francisco Xavier de Vigge-Biaundo. Needles to say that we had a great tour.

Mission San Javier

The mission was founded in 1699 by Padre Francisco Maria Piccolo. Little remains of the original structures. Except the Church which has been rebuilt in 1744 and is well maintained. It features detailed stonework around its doors and windows, and inside a gilded altarpiece with the statue of San Javier. Every December 3rd, hundreds of pilgrims celebrate the saint's fiesta up here.

Interesting stonework

The village of San Javier is very clean and pretty. The missionaries brought seeds to this valley to grow a variety of fruits and also cotton and sheep, from which the indigenous people learned to weave fabrics. Around the church, beautiful orange trees are growing. One of the main crops in this valley today are onions. Irrigation canals from the time of the Jesuits still water the local fields.

Saludo from a Rancher

On the drive up and down the scenery was beautiful. The Sierra de la Giganta in its rugget best. There are some ranches along the way, but the one visible about half way up is the pretty Rancho Las Parras.

Village of San Javier

Before driving back down to Loreto, we had coffee and homemade date loaf with a date and soft cheese spread served by the owner at the Palapa San Javier. Delicious. We were probably the only clients all day, because besides the broken down truck, we only met one more vehicle on the way down.






This is one of the most memorable side trips we made on the Baja and well worth it.

Beautiful Trip

For more pictures of this trip, please go to our Link to our Web album













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