Baja Bound, Part 14. Mulege to Loreto

Loreto, Sea of Cortez, Baja California Sur

On November 28th it was time to say good-bye to Lynne and Dave at Coyote Beach. Anders and I wanted to explore the southern half of the Baja Peninsula.

Wonderful drive through Las Bebelamas

The drive to Loreto from Mulege is only about 130km, but it took us a good two hours driving, because of the beautiful landscape and the photo stops.

First the gorgeous Sea of Cortez along the Bahia Santa Ines and the Bahia Concepcion and then over the mountain range Las Bebelamas. Further along the great mountain formation of the Sierra de la Giganta ( Giants ) is breathtaking. Green valleys are bordered by gigantic rocky mountains. Closer to Loreto a wide green valley opens up. Besides cattle and goats there were some greenhouses visible in the far distances.

Loreto sits dramatically at the base of the Sierra de la Giganta and on a bay of a National protected marine park on the Sea of Cortez. 

Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto 

Historically Loreto had a wild past. In 1697 Italian Jesuit Salvatierra established the first Jesuit Mission on the Baja. What started in a tent to worship in, became the beautiful Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto de Concho ( Concho was Loreto's original name). 

Loreto became the capital of Spanish California. In 1767 the Spanish Franciscan padres expelled the Jesuits. About 10 years later Monterey became the new capital. In 1829 a hurricane wiped out most of the town. Forgotten until the early 1900 when commercial fishing became popular in the bay. 

But Loreto remained a sleepy fishing village until the Mexican Government designated Loreto as part of the tourist corridor, and the Transpeninsula Highway was completed in 1973.

Nopolo Development at a Standstill

The development venture between Fonatur (Mexicos National Fund for Tourism Development), and a US and a Victoria owned company started a new roller coaster for this city. Big development plans for a 27 km coastal stretch south of Loreto, in Nopolo and Puerto Escondido started grand, but came to a screeching halt a few years ago. Sad, in these "exclusive" tourist places fancy homes look at unfinished ruins of broken dreams. The tennis courts were overgrown and the golf course was in rough shape when we visited.

Along the Malecon in Loreto

We stayed at the "La Mision"hotel right on the Malecon, the beach, in the old town of Loreto. Anders found a room for half price, and we enjoyed this hotel very much. The dinner in the evening was excellent.

The old town of Loreto is very pretty. We walked the Calle Salvatierra visiting galleries and shops.

For additional pictures from this part of our trip see our web album


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Baja Bound, Part 13. Coyote Beach on the Bahia Concepcion, Sea of Cortez

Bay of Conception, Baja California Sur

Lynne and Dave Wheatley, Lisa's parents, are the reason we are travelling on the Baja here in Mexico. They have been staying down here for the winters for the last few years. And after driving all the way up and down the Baja Peninsula, they definitely managed to choose the best beach with the warmest waters. Wow. They are camping on Coyote Beach on the Bay of Conception on the Sea of Cortez.

Bahia Concepcion, Sea of Cortez

This is a white sandy beach about 30 minutes south of Mulegé. All along the Bahia Concepcion are a string of beautiful protected white sandy beaches. This is a National Marine Preserve. 

Most of these beaches belong to "ejidos", and the local farmers collect camping fees. For more information about ejidos :    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ejido

Along some of the beaches, a number of Americans and Canadians have built semi permanent homes. The property rights and rules are still discussed by the locals.

Palapa on Coyote Beach

Lynne and Dave stay here in their motor-home and pay a small fee including for the rental of a Palapa Lynne uses as her art studio. 

Throughout the week, local farmers visit the beaches and offer fresh vegetables, seafood, and homemade goodies for sale. It is a great system. The farmers also look after the garbage and sell fresh water in big barrels. 

Most people, even the locals drink bottled water. Although, I must say, I was not very diligent in washing vegetables and fruits in disinfectant after a while, and we never had a problem.

Peter and Anders the Glass Artists

One afternoon Lynne took us to see Peter, a glass artist at the end of the beach. Anders and Peter had a good time. Anders created a Polar Bear resembling more a badger.

David, his brother Peter, and Anders went fishing around the different islands in the bay and came back with lots of Trigger Fish and other species.

The Boys are going Fishing

In the meantime, the girls, Lynne, her sister-in-law Dee and I went for lunch at the local Taqueria enjoying generous Margaritas.

The Girls doing Lunch

All day long we swam in the bay in the beautiful warm waters. Anders also went snorkeling. He was all exited at the schools of fish he swam through.

Pelicans diving in the Bay

In the evenings we celebrated Happy Hour, ate wonderful meals, and went to bed at Baja Midnight ( 8pm ). Stars in the Milky way were shining brightly.

For more pictures, check out our web album.






























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Baja Bound, Part 12. The Town of Mulegé on the Bahia of Santa Ines, Sea of Cortez

Mulegé, Baja California Sur

Clementine's Bed and Breakfast is run by Cliff.  We had free range of the communal open-air kitchen where we made our breakfasts, and where we met other guests. We really liked that set up.  

Clementine's B&B

The B&B is right on the Mulegé River, also known as the Rio Santa Rosalia . So each morning we went for nice walks. 

Where the river meets the Sea of Cortez in the Bay of Santa Ines there is a pretty estuary with a great variety of water foul. 

The Mulegé River flooded severely in 2006 when Hurricane John pushed trees and homes toward the sea. Even now some homes, properties and the road along the river are not renovated from the storm.

Estuary on the Mulegé River

Anders and I liked to meander through this small Mexican town. There are no high rises, nor big hotels. Just some hungry but friendly vendors in souvenir shops. 

The local pubs and Cantinas are wonderful places to enjoy Tacos, drinks and local seafood. 

One evening we stopped in at Scott's El Candil. Here you can socialize with the local Gringo community and eat good Mexican food or burgers. 

Grocery Store Guard

Shopping for groceries can be a challenge in Mulegé if you are looking for Canadian or American style food. If you are looking for beans and rice, no problems.

Lunch at Las Casitas

We really liked lunches and snacks at Las Casitas. Casual, and very pretty with excellent service by Serge. 

We would have stayed in their hotel, but they do not have any off-street parking. Although, as we found out while staying on the Baja, that is not really a problem, the people here respect the visitors.

On the hill overlooking Mulegé and the valley beyond sits the Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulegé. It is a wonderful spot to get a good idea of the lay of the land. The Mission Church may be open or closed.

Just walking around gave us an idea of  the efforts of the missionaries who arrived here in 1705. 

According to local information it was the Jesuits who brought not only their beliefs, but also the seeds for the palm trees and plants for grapes.

Mision Santa Rosalia

For more pictures from this part of the trip, check out our web album.


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Baja Bound, Part 11

San Ignacio to Mulegé, Baja California

Early morning breakfast

Mission Nuestra Senor San Ignacio de Kadakaaman

Anders and I were up early, even though the clock was advanced by one hour in Baja California Sur. At 7:15 we were at the Rice and Beans restaurant for breakfast.

I (Liz) had cheese and avocado omelette and Anders had bacon and cheese omelette. Naturally served with beans and lightly fried potatoes, almost like a "rösti" but with a hefty dose of garlic.

Huge breakfast, not bad, good coffee. We watched the sun coming up over the Date Palm trees. San Ignaciao is in a fault of the earth, hence the palm canyon.

In the morning Lynne and Dee came with us into town. We looked at the old Mission Church: Mission Nuestra Senor San Ignacio de Kadakaaman 1728-1840.

The church was restored in 1976 but shows cracks from earth quakes.

Driving toward Conception Bay

Coyote beach

The museum next door was open, exhibiting some rock art/rock paintings of nearby Sierra de San Francisco. All with Spanish explanations, but very interesting.

Santa Rosalia viewed  from Hwy 1 is the ugliest city so far in Mexico! Very commercial and dirty.

We drove out to Coyote beach with the gang. What a beautiful beach and setting....The water is crystal clear and warm. Wow!

After a while we headed back into Mulegé and checked into Clementines B&B. Good!

Had supper at Scotty's Pub in town. Very good.

More pictures from this part here.

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Baja Bound, Part 10

El Rosario to San Ignacio

Cacti jungle

Beautiful Country.

Yesterday we stayed in El Rosario at the Baja Cactus Motel in the newly renovated section. Our room was great. Lynne, Dave, Peter and Dee could park right in the inner courtyard with their rigs, that was great.

We went to Mama Espinoza for supper.

Everybody was in a good mood, apparently the Margaritas were good. Most of us ate good Mexican food. I (Liz) had Prime Rib for dinner, kind of needed to give my tummy a break.

Mama Espinoza is still alive at 107 and counting. Her daughter now runs the place. The Baja 1000 racing crowd have a tradition to stop here and eat and drink.

The morning drive out of El Rosario did not disappoint. We climbed to a high plateau and the fields of cacti just increased. Amazing!

Just before Catavina there are huge boulders and yellow rocks with cacti just growing out of it. We looked into the "Mission Catavina" hotel. That would be a beautiful place to stay with its old Spanish style architecture.

Liz and Anders outside Mission Catavina

Trucking south.

Dee, Dave and Lynne

At the crossing over to Baja California Sur from Baja Norte, there is a food inspection, no citrus fruits or potatoes are allowed, we payed 20 pesos and then they spray the vehicle's under carriage.

We continued all the way to San Ignacioand to the Rice and Beans motel. The food there was ok, but the rooms were not. We will not stay there again.

The first motel room smelled from sewer and had roaches on the floor. We got a different room, that at least did not smell.

We had a pretty good meal at the restaurant and later cooled our feet in the pool.

During this part of the drive we were stopped at several military check points, no problems, very nice young men just doing their duties.

Much of the countryside we drove through this day was dry, and not cultivated.

There are more pictures from this part of the trip on line. Have a look.
















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Baja Bound, Part 9

Ensenada to El Rosario, Mexico

Pretty Drive

It is a tight squeeze. Time to fold the side mirror in.

Dave's mechanic was supposed to install new shocks this morning, but he never showed up.

Apparently he had called someone and left a message?

We are late leaving at around 10 am. Direction south towards Mulege is in the GPS.

We will not make it there for a few days but we are working on it.

Our goal for today it Catavina. We may not make it there since we had a late start and it is pitch black at 6 pm.

Apparently you do not want to be on the road at dark, we have been told.

The drive is nice and interesting. Anders got really tired driving behind the two slower RV's ahead of us.
The narrow roads and the Mexican style of driving and passing takes a bit of getting use to.

Miles and miles of green houses.

The towns do not look like they are getting much of the profits.

The Valle St. Thomas is quite pretty. In the Valle de San Quintin they grow tons of vegetables and fruits.

For example we often eat strawberries and raspberries from "Driscol" in Canada. Well, it is here they grow them.

Miles and miles of mesh covered green houses line the road as we drive along.

A bit further along all kinds of vegetables are grown. Huge companies operate here.

Unfortunately it looks like not much of the profits are passed along to the local people. The small towns look poor.

We arrive in El Rosario around 4 pm, we fuel up and decide we should stay the night.

We check into the Baja Cactus Motel. Baja Cactus may not look like a lot from the outside but it is great, a bit rustic, but we loved it, and the price is right.

Hotel Baja Cactus

Our room, great.

Mama Espinoza's restaurant

The owners of the gas station next door is the same owner as the motel. Nice to see some of the local people getting ahead.

We clean up and go out for supper at Mama Espinoza. Great food and Margaritas.

Early to bed after a bit of a tense day of driving.

For more pictures of this part of the trip, check out our web album.



































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Baja Bound, Part 8

Lebec, California USA to Ensenada, Mexico

Dave and Lynne at the front and Peter and Dee behind.

It is now 11 days since we left our home in British Columbia.

We are up bright and early and ready to roll out of Lebec at 8am.

Anders and I decided we would drive ahead, because Lynne and Dave with their motor-home and Peter and Dee with their truck and 5th wheel will take a bit longer. So we drove ahead.

It's Sunday morning and the perfect time to drive through Los Angeles and San Diego. Traffic, yes, but not problems. We then all met later at the Albertson Store at El Cajon just past San Diego on the #94 Hwy.

Wine country in Mexico

Arriving in Ensenada

Here we shopped for the last little US things and headed toward Tecate and the Mexican border. We parked our vehicles and walked over to the Mexican side. We were met by a Mexican official and had our tourist visas stamped. Then we walked back to the USA and picked up our vehicles.

We were a little nervous, but Dave explained that most of the time we would just drive through. Well, Peter and Dee did. We got searched by friendly border guards,and then were sent on our way.

Dave and Lynne, got searched and were not as lucky. The border Guards decided that the 9.9hp motor Dave had with him for the boat, he would have to pay import duty on. They brought the motor last time no problem, but this time they through the book at them. It is not easy to know with all these things.

We were waiting and nobody knew what was going on. Lynne and Dave had to wait for the right person that would decide how much duty.....

Two hours later we finally see Dave and Lynne coming down the highway. Good, they did not end up in jail. We were so happy to see them again.

Dave filled up with gas at the Pemex station up at the top of the hill. All gas stations are Mexican owned and look the same. Usually they also have "servicios", washrooms.

View from our room

After all this excitement, we are soon

Dinner with Lynne and Dave

 on the road again on the Ruta Del Vino, the Vine Route.

Morning Walk around the resort.

We go through Valle de la Calafia

Dee, Lynne and Peter in the RV park, also part of the resort.

and Valle Quadeloupe on hwy #3 where large wineries have made their home. The towns close to the wineries are pretty nice, other then that, the area looks very poor.

The road from Tecate to Ensenada is very narrow and curvy with sharp drops off the pavement. The scenery is wonderful and the evening glow makes it all look good.

At about 6 pm we roll into Ensenada, a big city of about 280,000 people on the pacific ocean. Poor areas, tourist areas, local nice areas. We drove all through town to the Estero Beach Resort. We had a reservation and our room is fantastic with a view of the pacific.

Peter and Dee went to bed early, and we had supper with Dave and Lynne at the resort. We had some really good Mexican wine with dinner "Don Luis - Cetto"

During dinner Dave and Lynne informed us that their motor home needs new brakes and drum repair. We will stay here two nights.

Then next morning we took a nice long walk around the hotel grounds. As we were crossing one of the roads a gentleman stopped in his SUV and asked if we wanted a ride. We said no thanks, we needed the exercise. He promptly pointed out that I (Anders) could use some, but not Liz.

We chatted some more, and he introduced himself as the owner Antonio Novelo Silva. He owns this hotel and 4 more. A very nice man. His son Luis is the manager.

With the help of the front desk staff, Dave got a mechanic out to fix his break, they did a fantastic job, all for $150.00, Dave gave him $200. Great service.

Both of us loved Estero Beach and will stop there on the way back home.

More pictures from this part of the trip, click here.







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