Baja Bound, Part 30. Mulegé, Baja Sur to Catavina, Baja Norte

It was time to pack everything and head north to the USA

On the 29th of November 2013 we said good bye to Lynne and Dave, Coyote Beach, and the warm weather. Thank you Lynne and Dave, without your encouragement, we probably would not have driven all the way down here.

Packing the Truck to Leave Coyote Beach

Leaving Bahia Concepcion, the Bay of Conception

We had a beautiful drive between Santa Rosalia and San Ignacio. The dormant volcanoes Las Tres Virgenes, El Azufre and Viejo just stood there, history in cooled rocks.

Along the Volcanoes

Anders and I discussed many of the experiences we have had down here on the Baja. We were exited, sad, and happy to go back home.

Ranchers on a Morning Ride

Initially we had in mind to go and see if the whales were in the Laguna Ojo de Liebre close to Guerro Negro, but the road to the Campo de Ballinas ( Whale Watch Camp ) was still closed.
Too bad. We will have to come back some other time. Apparently the best time to see the calving whales with their babies is January to April.

Leaving Baja Sur

Entering Baja California Norte

Just north of Guerro Negro we entered Baja Norte. There was another military check point. It was interesting, driving north, at most of the military check points, and there were probably 6 to 8 of them,  the searches were more thorough. They checked the inside of the truck and the truck bed in the back opening all containers. Also, they always tapped on the truck doors on the inside to check if they sounded hollow. The military were friendly, but stern. No photos allowed.

Driving Through the Valley of the Protected Cirios Cactus

We really enjoyed this drive through the cacti fields, the desert, the mountains. We got used to the narrow roads, trucks hugging the yellow middle lane, curva peligrosa ( dangerous curves ), tope ( speed bumps ) and the hidden Stop signs in the small towns.

Desert with a big variety of Cacti

We drove all the way to Catavina and stayed for the night at the Mision Catavina Hotel.

For more pictures of this part of the trip, please click here

Click on any of the links below to go to other parts of this wonderful trip.

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Baja Bound, Part 29. La Trinidad Cave Painting Tour, Mulegé, Baja Sur

Our Amazing guided Tour to the Cave Paintings La Trinidad, a UNESCO protected site.

November 27th 2013 is the big day when we go and see the cave paintings.

Yesterday we made arrangements in the Las Casitas restaurant in Mulegé to meet the registered guide Salvator Castro Drew to take us to the La Trinidad Cave.  http://mulege.net/tours/

This morning we met in front of Las Casitas. Salvator introduced us to the only other person joining our tour today, Helena from France. We boarded Salvador's passenger van and drove to the police station. The same building also houses the " Instituto National de Antopologia e Historia". Here we all had to register for the tour, and pay another 45 pesos each if we wanted to take pictures.at the cave.

Driving west toward the Sierra Guadalupe

Then we drove west out of Mulegé. The van rattled, and we bounced around over the sand and gravel road. 

On our Way with our guide Salvador Drew

From time to time we stopped to take pictures. At one spot, Salvator showed us many native plants and their usage now and traditionally and their benefits and dangers. That was very interesting. Anything from headaches, stomach pains, sexual arousing, cancer, constipation, etc., the indigenous people have and had a cure for it. I wonder why we do not use that knowledge more today.

Looking at Native Remedies

We drove west toward the Sierra Guadalupe mountains. It took us about and hour and a half to reach the ranch house of Rancho La Trinitad.

On our Way to La Trinidad

This is a huge private cattle ranch ( about 16,000 acres ). Mario, the ranch hand / cowboy, or Charro is looking by himself after the 300 head of cattle. We registered ourselves and paid 100 pesos for accessing the caves over this private ranch.

The Ranch Hand or "Charro" talking to us

Registering at La Trinidad

From here we hiked about 30 minutes into the canyon. On the way there we admired some grinding stones left behind from times past. 

Grinding Stones

At the end of the canyon, Salvador had a boat we took around the rock face to the cave with the famous paintings. This pre-Colombian rock art site is very impressive.

Our Hike to the Cave

Part of the cave collapsed some time ago, but it is still huge and very open and exposed to daylight. 

At the La Trinidad Cave

After we took some pictures, Salvador explained the history and legends of the paintings from the Cochimi Natives. There is an estimate that the paintings are up to  8000 years old. Some of the images are over painted, probably by more recent generations. The largest image is a deer in orange and  red, with 2 fawns standing beside.

Deer with Fawns

We admire this site, imagining what the artists may have had in mind, painting these images. The possibilities are endless.

Salvador Drew at the Cave

Images at the La Trinidad Cave

We all sat around taking in the history. Then we ate our lunch Salvador brought along. After a while, we slowly made our way back to the ranch.

We had a Wonderful Day

On the way back to the Ranch House

Beautiful unspoiled Country

This was an amazing and impressive tour. I would take it again, just to marvel at history.

At Rancho La Trinidad

On our way back to Mulegé, Salvador stopped on top of the hill to visit the mission Santa Rosalia de Mulegé. Founded in 1705, it is still overlooking the valley and the Mulegé River.
A perfect ending to a wonderful day.

At the Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulegé

From Mulegé with views west toward La Trinidad

For more pictures of our trip to La Trinidad, please go to our Web Album 

Click on any of the links below to go to other parts of this wonderful trip.

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Baja Bound, Part 28. Puerta San Carlos to Mulegé, Baja Sur

From Puerta San Carlos over Loreto to Coyote Beach in Mulegé, Baja Sur

We were so happy to leave our bug hotel early on the 24th of November.

EcoHotel in San Carlos

San Carlos

Driving through San Carlos we realize that there is a fish processing plant and a military base here. That would explain the truck traffic all night. Even though San Carlos is the only other deep-water port on the Pacific coast of the Baja besides Ensenada, it all looks very neglected.

San Carlos close to the fish processing plant

The sport fishing business on the Baja and its protection is hotly debated. The government legislation " Norma Oficial Mexicana 029" may protect endangered sharks and rays, but it is also allowing long-line commercial fishing closer to shore. Fishing villages like San Carlos suffer under uncertain rules.

Old Fishing Boat

We enjoyed beautiful sunshine on our drive back to Ciudad Constitucion, and then north on Hwy # 1 to Ciudad Insurgentes. In this Santo Domingo Valley farming is the main occupation, from sunflowers to wheat and corn.

Sunflower Field close to Ciudad Constitucion

Through the Sierra de la Giganta we had a glorious drive. The sun was shining and the mountains looked gorgeous.

Approaching the Sierra

Enjoying the Views

We saw the odd Rancho, but mostly just Nature

In the Foothills of the Sierra

Sierra de la Giganta

What a great Drive

Once back on the Sea of Cortez, we stopped in at Puerto Escondido. This is a perfect area for new homes on a sheltered bay. Unfortunately it is another huge broken dream. The services are in, but construction stopped very early. Sad.

Laguna Escondido

This Luxury Development came to a Screeching Halt

The Views from Puerto Escondido

Coming Down to Loreto Bay

Back on the Sea of Cortez

On our way to Mulegé we stayed in Loreto at the La Mision Hotel again. What a treat after the bug hotel in San Carlos! 

Hotel La Mision in Loreto

 The old town of Loreto is very comfortable.

Lunch Along the Malecon

The drive through the cacti fields and along the foothills of the Sierra de la Giganta to Coyote Beach in Mulegé is absolutely relaxing and beautiful.

Drive from Loreto to Mulegé

Cacti Fields in the Desert

Lynne and Dave welcomed us on Coyote Beach. Anders and I realized that this beach is the best on the Baja we so far visited. Wonderful clear water, sandy beach, no undertows, and great company..

Dinner in Lynne's Palapa

Dave and Lynne

Lynne arranged for us that we could rent her friend Susan's 5th wheel right here on the beach beside them. It was like coming home.

For more pictures from this part of our trip, please go to our Web Album

Click on any of the links below to go to other parts of this wonderful trip.

1.       2.      3.      4.      5.      6.     7.      8.      9.      10.

11.    12.    13.    14.    15.    16.    17.    18.    19.    20.

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